So it goes in Moz...

“So it goes in Moz.” I found myself saying this a lot to my dad and sister as I showed them around my home for the past 13 months.  

They were surprised by the number of people always walking along the highway. 

My dad was shocked at just how dirty Maputo was. 

And they were amazed at how one could buy just about anything along the side of the road. 

They would ask me questions about why things were the way they were—things that had just become the norm to me.  

They were awestruck by the beautiful beaches. 

They were impressed by the work ethnic of the neighborhood kids. 

And they adjusted to the simplicity of life here.  

“So it goes in Moz.” 

But, I too, started to question things that I hadn’t thought twice about since my first arrival in country. So together we saw it all. Well, just about everything that is, in Maputo, Tofo Beach, Namaacha and my village, Chicumbane.

The view from our hotel room in Maputo.

Statue of Samora Machel, Mozambique's first president.

Maputo Central Market.

Lunch at the Fish Market. 

Maputo: Maputo was a whirlwind. When we arrived in Mozambique, we were there for just one day and two nights, but we saw a lot. We went to the cathedral, art museum, train station, fish market, Hotel Cardoso (which looks out over the Indian Ocean), the craft market, the central market and my favorite capalana store.  On our way back through Maputo on our return before their flight out, we stayed at Guest House Mozeika and I took them to eat meio frango (half of a chicken) and despite their doubts they were able to eat the whole thing.

Half of a chicken.

Tofo: After an 8-hour drive to Tofo Beach, once we parked the car, my dad said we wouldn’t be moving it until we were leaving. Who could blame him? We had beachfront accommodations and everything we needed within walking distance. Our three days there were spent reading, getting up to see the sunrise, beach walks, swimming, snorkeling, sunsets, hammock time, reading and a competitive game of wiffle ball with other volunteers followed by a dinner out on the town (a real treat for PCVs) thanks to Den-Den. Aside from enjoying seafood, I had my family try some local market food including pumpkin leaves and matapa. They were pleasantly surprised by this rustic beach town set on the Indian Ocean.

The view from our room in Tofo.

Sunrise over the Indian Ocean.

Footprints.

Sunset over Tofo Beach.

Tofino.

MATAPA!

Market Matapa in Tofo.

Namaacha: While it entailed a little more stressful time in the car, I dragged my family out to meet my host family in Namaacha, where I lived for the first three months in Mozambique during training. But, once we got through Maputo, they were amazed at how scenic the drive was. We arrived late in the afternoon and just had time to have tea with Mae Ecineta. But, everyone really just enjoyed getting the chance to meet, even though it was brief.

Tea with Mae Ecineta.

Chicumbane: And lastly, but certainly not least, my home in Chicumbane. Even when we just passed in-route to Inhambane, some of my neighborhoods came over to meet the new white people in town. When we came back to stay for three nights, it was a non-stop visit. We had planned to build a perma-garden together in my yard. Upon setting out to start, we already had two kids to help us. Within five minutes, another…and another…and another. As they each came by, I told them to go grab a shovel or hoe and then they dove into help. Less than two hours later…the beds of the perma-garden were dug. 

Bridget and my neighbors digging the beds. 

Mixing in the manure...

The next day, the kids came back to help with putting in manure and planting. We did the manure, but decided to wait on the planting because I would be leaving for another week. I also gave my family a tour of the Rural Hospital of Chicumbane and introduced them to all my co-workers. And I brought them to CACHES. 

After introducing my dad and Bridget to the group, all the kids came up and shook their hands. I think the idea was to just shake once, but the kids ended up coming through the line about three times.

At CACHES, my dad presented the kids with a soccer ball that had been donated by a colleague of his in the name of a friend, Ned, who had passed away this year at 46 years old. 

Group shot outside CACHES.

They also came bearing pencils and erasers donated by Mrs. Evans’ and Mrs. Hunnewell’s fourth grade class who I have been corresponding with since I left. The kids and volunteers were overjoyed. We haven’t had pencils for a while. And with the soccer ball, the next day we had a big game with about 35 kids. They even got Bridget and I to play. 

One crazy game of soccer... 

We made it to Xai-Xai, where I took them to my market bean lady, Adelaide. In addition, i introduced my fruit and vegetable market ladies and the grocery store. We also made it out to Xai-Xai beach, my little oasis, close to home. 

Market beans with Adelaide.

When we were just hanging out the house, the neighborhood kids kept my dad company on the veranda and he enjoyed reading with them and making paper airplanes. 

Dad reading with his new friends on my porch.

And on the last night, a Thursday night when I usually do English lessons with my co-workers at CACHES, I invited them to come eat dinner with my family and practice their English. I had invited some Peace Corps Volunteers as well. A cultural exchange it was. We ate lentils. One of my co-workers insisted on getting xima for my dad to eat. We had a fire outside and introduced them to smores. My friend Mike brought his guitar and played songs for everyone. Some of my co-workers borrowed it and played Mozambican songs. They used a jug as a drum and started to teach my sister some Mozambican dances. My family wore the capalana tunics I had made for them. CACHES presented my family with t-shirts. And we all had cake in honor of Nelson Mandela’s birthday. And the next morning, we were back on the road.

Smores. Peace Corps Goal #2: Cultural Exchange.

The whole gang.

My dad and Nelio.

Grupo Amizade.

 As they got on the plane headed back to America, I got on a chapa back to Namaacha to go help out with the training of the new health volunteers. It is hard to believe I was a trainee just a year ago…

Saying good-bye to Chicumbane...(no, that's not Mel. Meet Lupe, my neighbor's dog)