So it goes in Moz...

“So it goes in Moz.” I found myself saying this a lot to my dad and sister as I showed them around my home for the past 13 months.  

They were surprised by the number of people always walking along the highway. 

My dad was shocked at just how dirty Maputo was. 

And they were amazed at how one could buy just about anything along the side of the road. 

They would ask me questions about why things were the way they were—things that had just become the norm to me.  

They were awestruck by the beautiful beaches. 

They were impressed by the work ethnic of the neighborhood kids. 

And they adjusted to the simplicity of life here.  

“So it goes in Moz.” 

But, I too, started to question things that I hadn’t thought twice about since my first arrival in country. So together we saw it all. Well, just about everything that is, in Maputo, Tofo Beach, Namaacha and my village, Chicumbane.

The view from our hotel room in Maputo.

Statue of Samora Machel, Mozambique's first president.

Maputo Central Market.

Lunch at the Fish Market. 

Maputo: Maputo was a whirlwind. When we arrived in Mozambique, we were there for just one day and two nights, but we saw a lot. We went to the cathedral, art museum, train station, fish market, Hotel Cardoso (which looks out over the Indian Ocean), the craft market, the central market and my favorite capalana store.  On our way back through Maputo on our return before their flight out, we stayed at Guest House Mozeika and I took them to eat meio frango (half of a chicken) and despite their doubts they were able to eat the whole thing.

Half of a chicken.

Tofo: After an 8-hour drive to Tofo Beach, once we parked the car, my dad said we wouldn’t be moving it until we were leaving. Who could blame him? We had beachfront accommodations and everything we needed within walking distance. Our three days there were spent reading, getting up to see the sunrise, beach walks, swimming, snorkeling, sunsets, hammock time, reading and a competitive game of wiffle ball with other volunteers followed by a dinner out on the town (a real treat for PCVs) thanks to Den-Den. Aside from enjoying seafood, I had my family try some local market food including pumpkin leaves and matapa. They were pleasantly surprised by this rustic beach town set on the Indian Ocean.

The view from our room in Tofo.

Sunrise over the Indian Ocean.

Footprints.

Sunset over Tofo Beach.

Tofino.

MATAPA!

Market Matapa in Tofo.

Namaacha: While it entailed a little more stressful time in the car, I dragged my family out to meet my host family in Namaacha, where I lived for the first three months in Mozambique during training. But, once we got through Maputo, they were amazed at how scenic the drive was. We arrived late in the afternoon and just had time to have tea with Mae Ecineta. But, everyone really just enjoyed getting the chance to meet, even though it was brief.

Tea with Mae Ecineta.

Chicumbane: And lastly, but certainly not least, my home in Chicumbane. Even when we just passed in-route to Inhambane, some of my neighborhoods came over to meet the new white people in town. When we came back to stay for three nights, it was a non-stop visit. We had planned to build a perma-garden together in my yard. Upon setting out to start, we already had two kids to help us. Within five minutes, another…and another…and another. As they each came by, I told them to go grab a shovel or hoe and then they dove into help. Less than two hours later…the beds of the perma-garden were dug. 

Bridget and my neighbors digging the beds. 

Mixing in the manure...

The next day, the kids came back to help with putting in manure and planting. We did the manure, but decided to wait on the planting because I would be leaving for another week. I also gave my family a tour of the Rural Hospital of Chicumbane and introduced them to all my co-workers. And I brought them to CACHES. 

After introducing my dad and Bridget to the group, all the kids came up and shook their hands. I think the idea was to just shake once, but the kids ended up coming through the line about three times.

At CACHES, my dad presented the kids with a soccer ball that had been donated by a colleague of his in the name of a friend, Ned, who had passed away this year at 46 years old. 

Group shot outside CACHES.

They also came bearing pencils and erasers donated by Mrs. Evans’ and Mrs. Hunnewell’s fourth grade class who I have been corresponding with since I left. The kids and volunteers were overjoyed. We haven’t had pencils for a while. And with the soccer ball, the next day we had a big game with about 35 kids. They even got Bridget and I to play. 

One crazy game of soccer... 

We made it to Xai-Xai, where I took them to my market bean lady, Adelaide. In addition, i introduced my fruit and vegetable market ladies and the grocery store. We also made it out to Xai-Xai beach, my little oasis, close to home. 

Market beans with Adelaide.

When we were just hanging out the house, the neighborhood kids kept my dad company on the veranda and he enjoyed reading with them and making paper airplanes. 

Dad reading with his new friends on my porch.

And on the last night, a Thursday night when I usually do English lessons with my co-workers at CACHES, I invited them to come eat dinner with my family and practice their English. I had invited some Peace Corps Volunteers as well. A cultural exchange it was. We ate lentils. One of my co-workers insisted on getting xima for my dad to eat. We had a fire outside and introduced them to smores. My friend Mike brought his guitar and played songs for everyone. Some of my co-workers borrowed it and played Mozambican songs. They used a jug as a drum and started to teach my sister some Mozambican dances. My family wore the capalana tunics I had made for them. CACHES presented my family with t-shirts. And we all had cake in honor of Nelson Mandela’s birthday. And the next morning, we were back on the road.

Smores. Peace Corps Goal #2: Cultural Exchange.

The whole gang.

My dad and Nelio.

Grupo Amizade.

 As they got on the plane headed back to America, I got on a chapa back to Namaacha to go help out with the training of the new health volunteers. It is hard to believe I was a trainee just a year ago…

Saying good-bye to Chicumbane...(no, that's not Mel. Meet Lupe, my neighbor's dog)

Vacation Part II: Safari in Kruger National Park

"Room 6….Room 6…Are you awake? Room 6.” That was our wake-up call over the radio every morning at 5:30 a.m.  at the Hoyo Hoyo Lodge in Kruger National Park. From there the schedule was as follows: Eat…Safari Drive (Drinks and snacks included)...Eat…Shower…Nap…Eat…Hang out…Eat…Safari Drive (Drinks and snacks included)…Drink…Eat…Sleep. Wake-up. Repeat. That was our routine for our three days in Kruger. I wish I was kidding. Along with the other guests, we couldn’t decide if it was some sort of  "fat camp" or just to have guests assimilate to the animals’ lifestyles.  But, whatever the reason for such a rigorous schedule (NOT!), it was pretty amazing for the time being. Oh yeah, and the safari was out of this world; we saw the Big Five: lion, leopard, rhino, African buffalo and elephant. But, don’t take my word for it, check out the pictures below.

Next stop: MOZAMBIQUE.

Consider them the welcoming committee to Kruger, we met these rhinos even before we checked into our lodge.

The elephants were there to greet us upon arrival at Hoyo Hoyo, our lodge. We thought maybe they lured them in every time new guests arrived, but turns out they put in a watering hole across the way so the elephants would stop tampering with the outdoor showers. 

Bridget and I with our tour guide, Twice, on one of our coffee breaks while on the morning safari ride. He led all of our safari tours. He never had formal training, but learned everything he knows from his parents growing up just outside Kruger Park.

This guy appears as the official animal on all South African National Parks signs.

A leopard's breakfast: impala. We could hear it crunching the bones from our safari jeep...

Dad checking out the elephants...

Our favorite seats on safari...we figure, in total, we spent about 18 hours on safari.

Lazy leopard taking an afternoon nap.

African buffalo. Twice said this is actually the most violent animal in the park.

LION.

A baobab tree. Think the Tree of Life, this tree is 2,000 years old.

Bird. ( I forget the official name).

More elephants at the Hoyo Hoyo watering hole.

Leopard. We were 15 feet away...Twice just kept saying, "This is a very aggressive animal..."

Sunrise over the African plains.

Giraffes. A mother and her baby, just one month old.

Impalas, Twice's favorite animal on the tour.

Family dinner our last night at Hoyo-Hoyo. Both couples were actually on their honeymoon, so we rightly named ourselves, "The Honeymoon Crashers." It never got old.

Vacation

I wish I could have seen a video of myself from when I first spotted my dad and my sister in the Capetown Airport. As I walked through the gateway from customs to the waiting area I was eagerly anticipating our encounter. Upon entering the area, I didn't see them. The thought crossed my mind, "Could they have been delayed?" But, then I realized I didn't even know their flight number.I stared blankly at the screen of arrivals. I tried called my dad's phone, no answer. But, then, I spotted them pushing their luggage cart down the hallway. I took off running in their direction. It was one of those dramatic airport meet-ups from the movies, think Love Actually. Vacation had begun.

First stop: CAPETOWN, South Africa. The city itself set at the foot of Table Mountain is just breathtaking. And then, to add the beauty of Cape of Good Hope, history behind Robben Island and all of the rich variety of food, I was slightly overwhelmed. I had contemplated just writing a blog about all the food I ate, but decided that would not be nearly as exciting for the reader. But, Capetown was absolutely amazing and the mere 48 hours we had there was not nearly enough time. With the time we had, we were able to see the V &A Waterfront, eat at Hildenbrand Restaurant, tour Long Street, visit Robben Island and hear the stories of the political prisoners, take a driving tour of Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point also stopping at Boulders Beach to see the penguin colony and eat at Beluga Restaurant. Unfortunately, we did not make it up Table Mountain because of a cloud coverage. But, that just gives me a reason to go back.

Cloud-covered Table Mountain

Sunrise over the waterfront in Capetown

The V & A Waterfront

Heading out on the ferry to Robben Island

Nelson Mandela's prison cell on Robben Island.

Robben Island

Penguins on Boulders Beach

The most south-western point on the continent.

Fighting the wind at the Cape of Good Hope. 

Between the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point.

Cape of Good Hope!

A long way from home...

The lighthouse at Cape Point.

Sunset on the drive from Cape of Good Hope back to Capetown.

 Second Stop: LIVINGSTONE, Zambia. Victoria Falls. One of the seven wonders of the world. We truly experienced the falls. Sunset cruise. Elephants. Walking along the paths of the falls. Baboons. Livingstone Island. Standing at the edge of the falls. Crossing the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Watching the sunset over the falls. The Flying Fox zip-line across the gorge. Yes, even Den-Den zip-lined across the gorge. Unreal.

Zambian beer

HIPPOS!!

Sunset cruise on the African Queen

Sisters!

Morning Rainbow at Victoria Falls

Check out the baboon in the tree!

Oh hey zebra!

At the edge of the falls...

Tour of Livingstone Island.

Den-Den's senior picture at Victoria Falls

Felix, our tour guide, at the edge of the falls. 

Look Mom, I'm flying!!

There he goes...

Still soaring...

Bridget over the gorge.

Third Stop: JOHANNESBURG, South Africa. We are staying out by the airport so we didn't get to see the city. But, I know I am enjoying the FREE Internet at the hotel and just relaxing a bit before we set out on our safari in Kruger National Park. 

Stay tuned to future blog posts as Den-Den and Bridget's African Adventure continues...